scarlettknits

Wed, 23 Apr 2008 02:11:19 GMT

See my personal journal here:

www.sashakatscarlett.blogspot.com

Belly Ribbon Top

Fri, 04 May 2007 19:04:13 GMT

Belly Ribbon Top

This is worked completely in the round, from the top down.

Top down sweaters are addictive. They are fast to knit, no seaming, and you can have the end receiver (in this case, my energetic two year old) try them on as you are working to see how it fits. This is if you can get them to stand still for a good 30 seconds.

Materials: Lang Yarns Java, 80% Cotton 20% Nylon (92 yards each), or other bulky weight ribbon yarn, 3 balls. Size 9 DPN, size 10 16" circular needle (or size needed for gauge).

Gauge: 14 sts = 4" Pattern below can be adjusted for any gauge.

Size: 2T (can also be adjusted, just measure your toddler's favorite shirt and follow the width)

Neckline

Using smaller needles, loosely cast on enough sts for 12 or 13" circumference with a number divisible by 4. In this case I cast on 44 sts. PM to indicate beginning of round. Join rnd, being careful not to twist sts. Work in k2 p2 rib for 1 inch.

Yoke

Switch to larger size needles. Knit 5 (sleeve sts), PM, Knit 17 (front body), Knit 5 (sleeve sts), PM, Knit 17 (back body).

Increase rnd: KFB, K to 1 st before marker, KFB, slip M, KFB, cont to increase 1 st before M and the next st after M. 8 sts increased.

Next Rnd: Knit.

Repeat last two rounds until front and back sts have been increased enough for desired width. In this case, I wanted the width to be 12 inches, so I continued the last two rows 12 times until I had 41 sts between markers for the front and back portions. 41 sts divided by my gauge (3.5 per inch) = 11.71 inches.

Body

Place sleeve sts on scrap yarn, Knit 41 (or number for front sts), place 2nd sleeve sts on scrap yarn, Knit 41. 82 sts total, join to work in the round.

Knit every round and continue until 1 inch before desired lenth.

Next rnd: Decrease 2 sts evenly (80 sts total). If using a different number of sts decrease evenly number of sts needed to make the total number divisible by 4.

Switch to smaller needles. Work in K2, P2 rib for 1 ". Bind off loosely.

Sleeves

Transfer 29 sleeve sts to smaller dpn's. Pick up 3 sts on underarm to close gap (or the number needed to make the total number of sts divisible by 4). Join, work in k2 p2 rib for 1", bind off loosely.

Weave in ends. Fringe bottom hem if desired.

Sat, 20 May 2006 21:22:47 GMT

Jellyroll

Tue, 02 May 2006 00:14:00 GMT

A size 2T toddler sweater.

Jellyroll Sweater

A very easy sleeveless sweater, done in the round. Doesn't use a lot of yarn, you can pretty much make this out of any worsted scraps you have available (and don't we know, if you are a normal knitter you probably have enough in your stash to circle the earth several times over.) Takes around 3-4 hours of knitting.

This was inspired by my one year old, Scarlett, who has a very round little tummy. She is still being breastfed and is very healthy but quite chunky nevertheless. She just started walking, and the little fringe is cute when she jumps around.

Materials:

Yarn: 100 grams of Plymouth Fantasy Naturale, 100% cotton, and various worsted yarn scraps of similar gauge. I used a multicolor yarn for the bottom and collar and I think this creates a good balance colorwise.

Needles: Size 7 circular and size 8, or size needed for gauge, ando one crochet hook for fringe.

Size: 2T, around 24 inches, 18-24 months.

Gauge: 18 st by 24 rows in stockinette stitch

With smaller needles, cast on 92 stitches. Place marker for start of round, join in the round, being careful not to twist. Using a multicolored yarn, start with the following:

Row 1: Purl
Row 2: Knit
Row 3: Purl

Change to a different yarn.

Row 4: Knit
Row 5: Purl

Repeat the last two rows four more times, each time using a different contrasting yarn. By knitting one round and purling the next, you are working in garter stitch since this is worked in the round.

Change to main color, and knit two rounds (stockinette stitch).

Change to a contrasting yarn, knit one round and purl one round. Repeat last four rows three more times.

Change to main color, knit three rounds.

Change to a contrasting yarn, kit one round and purl one round.

Change to main color, knit four rounds.

Change to a contrasting yarn, knit one round and purl one round.

Repeat last two rows 1 more time. Body should now be around 5 inches long.

Separate back and front evenly, 46 stitches on each holder. Work the front 46 stitches as follows:

K2, k2tog, knit in stockinette (knit one row, purl one row since you are now working flat) until the last four stitches, ssk, k2.
Next row: Purl

Repeat last two rows 3 times more, 40 stitches. Cont until armholes measure 3.25 inches.

Neck shaping: K10, place next 20 stitches (neckline) on a holder and the remaining 10 on a different holder. Turn, p10. Decrease 1 stitch at neck edge every alternate (knit) row 3 times, 7 stitches remaing. Bind off. Place last 10 stitches back on needle and work the same way.

Back: Work the same as for front.

Neckband: With right side facing and using contrast multicolored yarn from cast on row, pick up 20 stitches from center holder, 15 stitches along neck edge, 20 stitches from back holder, and 15 stitches along other edge. Join in round, pm for start of round.

Knit 1 round.
Purl 1 round.
Decrease row: K8, k2tog, repeat until end of round.
Next row: Purl
Decrease row: Knit, decrease 6 stitches evenly using k2tog.
Next row: Purl
Bind off.

Weave in ends, fringe the bottom with multicolored contrast yarn, with a crochet hook and double strands.

Notes: To make a smaller size, you could cast on less stitches... 86 or 88. Take away one decrease row at the shoulder shaping and make the neckline slightly smaller.

If you find corrections please email me at viamobile02 at yahoo.com. Thanks!

Thu, 27 Apr 2006 22:49:15 GMT

Curvilinear

A flattering design with waist shaping, done completely in the round so most of the time you are knitting every row. Can be used as a sleeveless sweater or as a vest over a fitted shirt.

Sizes: S, (M, L, XL, 2X, 3X)

Finished bust measurements: 32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52"

Materials: Plymouth Encore Chunky, 25% wool 75% acrylic (machine washable) 4, (4, 4, 5, 5, 5) skeins needed. Shown in color 54 size large.
Size 9 circular needle 24", and size 10 circular needle 16" and 24"

Gauge: in St st, 12 sts and 16 rnds = 4"

With size 9 needles, cast on 104, 116, 128, 140, 152, 164 sts. Join in a round, being careful not to twist. Work in k2 p2 rib for 2".

Change to larger needles. Knit 1, 3, 3, 3, 5, 5, rnds even. PM (beginning of round), knit 52, (58, 64, 70, 76, 82 ) and PM (side seam), k to end of round.

Decrease row: k1, k2tog, k to within four sts of next marker, ssk, k2, slip marker, k1, k2tog, k to within four st of next marker, ssk, k2.

K5 rnds then repeat the decrease row. Repeat these last six rows 4 more times. 80, (92, 104, 116, 128, 140) sts.

K 8 rounds.

Increase row: k1, m1, k to within three stitches of marker, m1, k3, slip marker, k1, m1, k to within three stitches of end of round marker, m1, k3.

*Knit 3 rounds, repeat increase row. Repeat last four rows two more times. 96, (108, 120, 132, 154, 166) stitches.

Work until body measures 15.5 (16, 16, 16, 16.5, 16.5) inches.

Separate back and front evenly. Place back sts on stitch holder. 48, (54, 60, 66, 74, 80) sts on each holder.

Armhole shaping:

Bind off 2, (2, 3, 4, 5, 5) stitches at the beginning of the next two rows. Bind of 1, (1, 2, 3, 3, 3) stitches on third and four rows. 42, 48, 50, 54, 60, 66 sts remain.

Knit in stockinette stitch (this time knitting one row, purling one row) until armhole measures 7, (7.5, 8.5, 8.5, 9, 9) inches.

Place first 6, (8, 8, 10, 13, 16) stitches on a stitch holder (shoulder seam), the next 32, (32, 34, 34, 34, 34) stitches on a different stitch holder (for collar), and the last 6, (8, 8, 10, 13, 16) stitches on another holder (for shoulder seam).

Repeat other side as for front.

Using larger needles, pick up 32, (32, 34, 34, 34, 34) stitches from back and 32, (32, 34, 34, 34, 34) stitches for front. Place marker for start of round, join in the round. 64, (64, 68, 68, 68, 68) sts total. Because the collar turns back, you are now working every round on the wrong side of the fabric.

For sizes Small and Medium: Collar: * K1, p1, k1 into the first stitch. Repeat this four more times. K22, K1, p1, k1 into the next stitch, repeat four more times. Repeat from * one more time for back stitches. 104 stitches total.

For sizes Large and up: Collar: * K1, p1, k1 into the first stitch. Repeat this four more times. K24, K1, p1, k1 into the next stitch, repeat four more times. Repeat from * one more time for back stitches. 108 stitches total.

Work in k2, p2 ribbing for two inches.

Increase row: * m1, k2, p2. Repeat from * to end. 130, 135 stitches total. Work in k3, p2 rib until collar is 7 inches.

Increase row: *M1, k3, p2. Repeat from * to end. 156, 162 stitches total. Work in k4, p2 rib until collar is 10 inches (or desired length).

Bind off in pattern. Graft shoulder seams, and weave in ends. Sew the small gap on the underarm seam.

Notes:

If you would like it to be longer, the best place to add extra rows is right after the ribbing and before you work on the shaping. Be sure to calculate the extra length when measuring other parts of the body. If you would like the vest to be shorter, leave out the four rounds right after the ribbing and just go right into the shaping.

Grafting the shoulder seams is optional. Some might find it more comfortable to do a three needle bind-off.

A single chain crochet around the armhole edge creates a neater finish, but this is optional.

If you are a size 2X or 3X, the shoulder shaping is approximate. If you find a better way of doing the shaping, please email me and I can add it to the pattern.

If you find corrections in the pattern please email me, address is viamobile02 at yahoo.com.

Kat's Paws

Thu, 08 Dec 2005 18:24:11 GMT

Kat's Paws

This is a very easy fingerless mitten made out of self-striping sock yarn. Despite the small gauge, it takes about 2 hours for each mitt. You are knitting every row and stockinette in the round goes quickly. It's also not so boring since you can watch the colorful stripes as they form in your hands.

Materials:

1 ball of Simple Stripes sock yarn in crayon from knitpicks.com, 75% superwash wool and 25% nylon, 50 gm . One ball will make 2 mittens.
1 set of size 1 double pointed needles, or size needed for gauge
2 stitch markers
1 yarn needle

Gauge:

7 sts = 1" on US size needle 1 in st

Size:

Fits size medium ladies' hands. Left and right hands are knitted the same way.

Directions

Cast on 60 stitches. Divide on double pointed needles and join in the round, careful not to twist. Place marker if needed to mark start of round.

Work 1 inch in k2 p2 rib.

Knit every round for 5" total length, or until desired length.

Begin thumb gusset:

1. k1, place marker, k1, inc 1, k1, inc 1, place marker (four stitches now between markers)
2. k1
3. k1, slip marker, k1, inc1, k until marker, inc1, slip marker. (You will now have 6 stitches between the markers, and 58 stitches outside the markers.)
4. k1
5. Repeat rows 3 and 4 until you have 20 stitches between the markers. Place the 20 stitches on waste yarn (if you have wide hands, continue until you have 22 or 24 stitches instead.)

Knit the remaining 58 stitches in the round for 1 inch.

Change to k2 p2 rib for one inch. During your first row, work two decreases so that you come out to 56 stitches (work k2tog twice while doing the rib). Bind off loosely in rib.

Finishing the thumb:

Transfer the 20 stitches onto 3 dpn's. Knit 5 rounds and bind off loosely in purl.

Using a tapestry needle, sew together the gap between thumb and the rest of the mitt using matching scrap yarn. Be careful not to sew too tight.

Weave in ends.

Added on July 21, 2006:

Here's an additonal picture, made by Dawn for her daughter. She found the thumb gusset to be a little small so it worked well for smaller hands, but if you have wider thumbs you should definitely add 4 more stitches for the gusset. I have slim hands so the above pattern worked well for me (I think my hands are about the only slim part of me!)

Chevron Moebius

Tue, 08 Nov 2005 20:54:10 GMT

Chevron Moebius

This is a variation of the famed "Moebius" pattern. The twist is done quite simply by grafting the ends together.

Materials:

2 skeins of Plymouth Encore. Contains 100 grams of 75% acrylic 25% wool. I used a multicolored yarn, but I believe the pattern stitch would show up much better in a solid color.

1 set of size 8 needles

Gauge

Gauge is not that important, this being a scarf. If you want to substitute a yarn use something of worsted weight.

Stitch Pattern:

This came from the elongated chevron pattern from knitting.about.com, and a close-up of the stitch can be found here. Any reversible stitch will work with this pattern.

Multiple of 18 sts + 1

Row 1: p1, *(k2, p2) twice, k1, (p2, k2) twice, p1; rep from *
Row 2: k1, *(p2, k2) twice, p1, (k2, p2) twice, k1; rep from *
Row 3: Rep row 1
Row 4: Rep row 2
Row 5: (p2, k2) twice, *p3, k2, p2, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2
Row 6: (k2, p2) twice, *k3, p2, k2, p2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2
Row 7: Rep row 5
Row 8: Rep row 6
Row 9: Rep row 2
Row 10: Rep row 1
Row 11: Rep row 2
Row 12: Rep row 1
Row 13: Rep row 6
Row 14: Rep row 5
Row 15: Rep row 6
Row 16: Rep row 5

Rep these 16 rows.

Directions

Use the Invisible (Provisional) Cast-On method to cast on 55 stitches. By using this cast on method, you use scrap yarn which keeps the stitches "live" and makes it easier to graft the ends in a loop later. For an explanation on how to do an invisible cast-on, go here.

Knit in pattern stitch until most of the 200 gm skeins are finished, or until the scarf is long enough to be looped around your head twice. End with row 8 on pattern stitch.

Block the scarf, and then transfer the CO stitches onto a needle, get rid of scrap yarn. Create one twist in the scarf, and hold the needles parallel and graft.

Grafting

Holding the 2 needles parallel with wrong sides of fabric together, thread a blunt tapestry needle with one of the yarn ends and work as follows: Insert needle as if to purl into the first stitch on front piece. Insert needle as if to knit into the first stitch on the back piece. Then follow steps 1-4 as outlined below.

1) insert it as if to knit through the first st on the front needle and let the st drop from the needle.
2) Insert the needle into the second st on the front needle as if to purl and pull the yarn through, leaving the st on the needle.
3) Insert the needle into the first st on the back needle as if to purl and let it drop from the needle, then
4) insert it as if to knit through the second st on the back needle and pull the yarn through, leaving the st on the needle. Repeat 1-4 until all sts are gone. When finished, adjust tension as necessary. Weave in ends.

Mon, 31 Oct 2005 04:55:31 GMT

Lacy Mock Cable Socks

A simple sock pattern with an easy-to-memorize stitch. Looks good in either self striping fingerweight yarn or solid colors. This is a mock cable because you don't actually need to do any cabling, it's just a matter of yarn overs and slipping stitches.

Materials:

1 ball Sockotta from Plymouth Yarns, color 617. Contains 100 grams of 45% cotton, 40% wool, 15% nylon.

1 set of size 2 double pointed needles

3 stitch markers

1 yarn needle for grafting and weaving in ends

Gauge:

7 sts = 1 inch on US size needle 2 in st

Size:

For a lady's foot size 7-10. My mom and I wear a size 9 1/2 and these fit us fine. While you are knitting, they look small but the stitch pattern is a rib stitch so it will really stretch to hug your feet in snug warmness.

Lacy Mock Cable Pattern

Round 1: * K2 P2 * repeat from * to *

Round 2: * K1, YO, K1, P2 *

Round 3: * K3, P2 *

Round 4: * K3, P2 *

Round 5: * K3, then pass the first of these k sts over the last 2 and drop it, p2 *

Close-up of the stitch pattern can be found here:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b373/katinchicago/morephotosIII009.jpg

Directions

Cuff

Cast on 56 stitches loosely. Divide evenly between dpn?s and place marker and join, careful not to twist the stitches. Work in k2 p2 rib for one inch. Change to lacy mock cable pattern stitch; work until piece measures 5 and 3/4 inch, ending with round 5 of stitch pattern.

Place last 28 stitches on one needle, and first 28 stitches on another. The heel flap is working on the last 28 stitches only. (I use point protectors on the ends of the needle holding the first 28 stitches while I am working the heel flap. You can also place them on a stitch holder if you are more comfortable.)

Heel flap (worked back and forth on last 28 stitches only)
Round 1 *Slip 1, k 1; rep from *.
Round 2 *Slip 1, p 1; rep from *.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until heel flap measures 2 1/4" ending with Row 2.

Turn Heel
Row 1 K 17, ssk, k 1, turn.
Row 2 Slip 1, p 7, p2tog, p 1, turn.
Row 3 Slip 1, k 8, ssk, k 1, turn.
Row 4 Slip 1, p 9, p2tog, p 1, turn.
Row 5 Slip 1, k 10, ssk, k 1, turn.
Row 6 Slip 1, p 11, p2tog, p 1, turn.

Row 7 Slip 1, k 12, ssk, k 1, turn.
Row 8 Slip 1, p 13, p2tog, p 1, turn.
Row 9 Slip 1, k 14, ssk, k 1, turn.
Row 10 Slip 1, p 15, p2tog, p 1

You will now have 18 stitches.

Pick up stitches for the heel gusset:

Knit 9 sts, place marker for the end of round, knit 9 stitches, pick up 19 stitches along the edge of heel flap, place marker, pick up 1 stitch, knit in stitch pattern 28 stitches of instep, place marker, pick up 19 sts along edge of heel flap, knit rem 9 sts. You will have 85 total stitches, divide evenly on your dpn's.

Gusset:

Knit until marker, p1, inc 1 and p1. These two purl sts are now your selvage sts. Continue in Lacy Mock Cable Stitch pattern until 2nd marker, k to end of round.

Round 1: knit to 3 sts before first marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker, p2, continue in Lacy Mock Cable Stitch pattern until 2nd marker, slip marker, k1, ssk, knit to end of round.

Round 2: knit until first marker, p2, continue in Lacy Mock Cable Stitch pattern until 2nd marker, slip marker, knit to end of round.

Continue in rounds 1 and 2 until 58 stitches remain. Keep markers in place for toe shaping, and continue with just round 2 until sock measures 7 1/2 inches, or two inches shorter than desired total length.

Toe Shaping:

Round 1: Knit to 3 sts before first marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker, k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before second marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker, k1, ssk, knit to end of round.

Round 2: Knit

Repeat these rounds until 22 stitches remain.

Finishing the toe: Knit 6 stitches. Divide stitches onto two needles so that 11 are on top and 11 are on bottom, and so that toe is perpendicular to the foot. Graft remaining stitches together, weave in ends.

Big Hair Band

Sat, 17 Sep 2005 20:26:47 GMT

Big Hair Band

I have really big hair, and so I decided to make a hairband that would hold it all back. I had never done cabling before, but used this really simple lattice stitch (hard to see in the pics).

Big Hair Band

Materials needed:

1 skein of Sugar 'n Cream, 100% cotton, 50 gm, or another yarn of light worsted weight. I recommend not to use anything too silky or it will just slip out of your hair. The Sugar 'n Cream has a somewhat rough texture and this seemed to work well utility wise.

1 pair size 8 needles

Cable Needle or dpn

Directions

CO 98 stitches

Knit one row, then follow the pattern below

1. k3, p4, *k2, p4. Rep from * to last st, then k1
2. p1, C4F, *p2, C4f. Rep from * to last 3 sts, then p3
3. work like row 1
4. p3, *k2, T4B. Rep from * to last 5 sts, then k4, p1.
5. k1, p4, *k2, p4. Rep from * to last 3 sts, then k3.
6. p3, C4B, *p2, C4B. Rep from * to last st, then p1
7. work like row 5
8. p1, k4, *T4F, k2. Rep from * to last 3 sts, then p3.

9. Bind off 24 stitches. k3, p4, *k2, p4. Rep from * until you have 25 stitches left (including stitch on LH needle). k1, bind off remaining 24 stitches. You will have 50 sts remaining.
10 - 16, Reattach yarn to remaining 50 sts, and then rep rows 2 through 8.
17. Bind off remaining stitches. Sew together ends.

Explanation of stitches:

C4F (cable 4 front): Slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next 2 sts from LH needle, then knit the 2 sts from cable needle.

C4B (cable 4 back): Slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 2 sts from LH needle, then knit the 2 sts from cable needle.

T4B (twist 4 back): Slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 2 sts from LH needle, then purl the 2 sts from cable needle.

T4F (twist 4 back): Slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, purl next 2 sts from LH needle, then knit the 2 sts from cable needle.

Thu, 18 Aug 2005 21:00:13 GMT

Mesh Rib Scarf Pattern

close up of the mesh rib pattern

This is a pattern I made in order to use up my stash of leftover worsted weight yarn. With Christmas coming up, I wanted to have a scarf I could make without actually going out and buying anything extra. :-)

The great thing about this pattern stitch is that it is really easy to keep track of and very repetitive, thus making your finished project look harder than it actually was. After a few rows in the pattern stitch you won't have to look at the directions anymore.

Materials:

Size 8 Needles
Worsted weight yarn, medium weight (I used various skeins of Simply Soft and cotton-ease.)

Mesh rib pattern:

1. K1 (*K2 tog, yo twice, SKP). Repeat from *, end with K1
2. (K3, P1) repeat until last two stitches, then K2 at the very end.
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for pattern.

Directions:

1. CO 34 stitches
2. Complete 4 rows in seed stitch
3. Knit in mesh rib pattern stitch until square reaches about 7 inches (you can also just count 15 or 16 yarn overs)
4. Change to new color of yarn
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until scarf reaches desired length. End with 4 rows in seed stitch.

I completed this with five different colors in simply soft, and fringed by cutting 18" strips of each different color and making a slip knot.

Explanations:

yo twice: This is a double yarn over. Bring the yarn forward between the needles and then wrap around one more time. This creates the hole in the pattern stitch and an extra 2 stitches.

SKP: slip one stitch, knit the next stitch, pass slipped stitch over.

Seed stitch: Row 1: * k1, p1, repeat until end.
Row 2: * p1, k1, repeat until end